Intro:
The small triangles making up the crocodile stitch are often referred to in-pattern as 'scales'. However, when I was working on this purse it reminded me more of a leafy Peter Pan-esque style. Instead of 'scales' I saw a pattern of woven leaves or some kind artichoke-like vegetable. The ambiguity of pattern makes it a perfect item for any intrepid pretender.
I know when I was a kid I loved having purses, backpacks, or sacks to put things in while I was playing outside. I would carry all kinds of 'necessities' for my adventures and pick up all kinds of rocks, leaves, and twigs. The 'scales' or 'leaves' in this pattern create the perfect pouch for the dragon hunter, fairy, lost boy, or sprite who needs it. I would caution, though, that the pattern does leave larger holes so if you anticipate it being used to cart around small items (like coins) it should be lined. That way you can avoid any lost 'treasures'.
The crocodile stitch pattern itself can be complicated since it involves working stitches along the 'posts' of previous rows. Because of that I have taken pictures from each step of my pattern below. If the stitch is new to you I suggest looking through my picture tutorial before starting. If you still find yourself lost at any point there are dozens of video and picture tutorials around the web for you to look at. Everyone learns differently so if my tutorial isn't helpful another one hopefully will be!
Additionally, if you are not new to the stitch and would prefer a more concise pattern with less explanation you can download the short PDF version here.
Pattern:
For the project I used an entire skein of Vanna's Choice, Lion Heart Brand, (worsted weight/100yrds) with a size J/10-6.00mm hook.
The purse itself is 8x6 inches with a 24 inch strap and a gauge of one leaf= 1x1inch.
Depending on your gauge/yarn/hook you may need a little more or less yarn, but otherwise the gauge isn't too important for this project.
You may want a stitch marker to mark the start of the initial rounds and a button for the closure.
The Body:
The main part of the purse is worked in the round beginning with rounds of single crochet and transitioning to the crocodile stitch.
To begin: make a slip knot, Ch 21, turn
Row 2: Sc in each chain across (21 sc), turn. Your work should look like the first picture below. The bright green lines mark the remaining back loops of the initial chain. You will work the next row through these.
Row 3: Now, instead of working back along that row of sc, work into the back loop from the initial chain to set up for working in the round as shown below, complete the row by slip stitching into the first sc stitch from row 2. You will now have a total of 42 Sc.
Round 4: Sc in each stitch around (42 stitches), and end with a sl st in the first sc of the row
Round 5: Now we'll start to do the crocodile stitch which consists of two rows that are repeated to get the layered 'leaves' effect. This first 'set-up' row will be a little bit different than the next ones, but only slightly. It should begin to look like the pictures below, with alternating paired (green triangles) and single posts (red lines) of hdc stitches
To begin, Ch1, 2hdc in next stitch, Ch1, *skp a stitch, hdc in next, Ch1, skp a stitch, 2hdc in next, Ch1 repeat from the asterisk all the way around ending with a sl st at the top of the first Ch (you should have 11 hdc post pairs and 11 single hdc posts)
Round 6: The second line of the Crocodile stitch is where things get a little different. Instead of working along the top of the bottom round like usual, most of the stitches will be wrapped around the hdc posts. I've broken it down into a couple of steps to make it slightly easier.
Step 1: Yo, and insert your crochet hook underneath the first hdc post of the first pair then up between it and the second post of the pair (right where the blue line is in the picture).
Step 2: Yo again, bring that thread back under the post, and pull through all three stitches on the hook. That is the first hdc stitch of the scale.
Repeat steps one and two three more times for a total of four hdcs around the first post of the pair, Ch1.
Step 3: Repeat step 1 and 2 four more times, except yo, and insert the crochet hook underneath the second post in the pair.
There is your first full 'scale'!!
Note: You'll notice that you will work down towards the bottom of the purse along the first post and back up to the top of the purse along the second purse.
Step 4: Slip stitch in the top of the single hdc post from the previous row (outlined in black below). This secures the stitch to the work and makes the next round easier to do.
To finish the round repeat steps 1-4 ending with a slip stitch. You should have 11 full 'scales'.
Round 7: This round is very similar to what you did in round 5, the set up round for the crocodile stitch. The only difference now is where you will place your stitches. Hdc pairs will end up on top of the single posts from round 5 while single hdc posts will be placed in-between the finished leaves (see below)
To start, Ch1 and hdc in same stitch (this is your first hdc pair), Ch1, now work one hdc between the two posts of the paired hdc from before (where the red line is)
Next, Ch1, and work 2 hdcs on top of the single post you made in the previous round (outlined in blue).
Repeat the steps next to the pictures until you go all the way around and then slip stitch into the top of the first Ch. You should 11 single posts and 11 paired ones.
Round 8-18: Repeat Round 6 and Round 7, ending with an even round, until you have a total of 7 rows of 'scales'
Round 19 (optional): slip stitch around the top of the purse (you should end with 52 stitches)
This makes it easier when attaching the button flap and strap and makes the purse look neater, but if you would prefer to skip this step you may. Also, finding the stitches can be difficult, so don't stress if you don't end up with the 52 count. As long as the purse looks even everything will be fine.
Bind off.
The Button Flap:
The button flap is worked from the bottom to the top in rows increasing the number of hdc pairs every other row to make the triangle shape. The pattern is basically the same except for the buttonhole round which includes Ch in between a hdc pair to make a big enough hole for the button.
Row 1: slip knot and Ch 6, turn
Row 2: (make the buttonhole) hdc in second Ch from hook, Ch1, Skp 1 Ch, hdc in next Ch, Ch 4, hdc in same Ch, Ch1, Skp 1 Ch, hdc in next Ch, turn (1 hdc pair, 2 single hdcs)
Row 3: Ch1, 4hdc along first hdc post, Ch1,4hdc along second hdc post, Sl St in top of bottom hdc post, turn (1 ‘scale’)
Row 4: (increase) Ch1, hdc in same stitch, ch1, hdc in Ch4 from row 2, ch1, 2 hdc in first chain from row 3, turn (2 hdc pairs, 1 single hdc)
Row 5: Ch1, 4hdc along first hdc post, ch1, 4hdc along second hdc post, sl st in top of next hdc post, 4 hdc along first hdc post of next pair, Ch1, 4hdc along second hdc post, turn (2 ‘scales’)
Row 6: (increase) Ch1, hdc in same stitch, Ch1, *hdc in-between bottom hdc pair, Ch1, 2hdc into top of single hdc of previous row, Ch1, repeat from * ending with 2hdc in top of Ch1 from previousround, turn (3 hdc pairs, 2 single hdc posts)
Row 7: Ch1, 4hdc along first hdc post, ch1, 4hdc along second hdc post, *sl st in top of next hdc post, 4 hdc along first hdc postof next pair, Ch1, 4hdc along Second hdc post of pair,repeat from * ending with 4hdcs in second post of last pair, turn (3 scales)
Follow the instructions for round 6 and 7 until you have a total of 5 scales (a total of 5 repeats of crocodile stitch pattern)
Row 12: Ch1, Sc across the back, bind off Align the flap with the back edge of the purse and starting from one end attach both pieces with method of your choice (I usually just slip stitch them together)
The Strap:
The strap is worked in Crocodile stitch so the 'scales' are lined up one on top of the other. Unlike for the body and button flap there is no need to work single hdc posts along with the paired posts. This means, that after every 'scale' row you simply make a slip stitch in between the two halves of the 'scale' you just made and make a pair of hdc stitches right there, where you would have made a single post before.
Row 1: To begin, Ch 2, turn
Row 2: You now have two hdc posts (one of them is the skipped Ch from Row 1) work 4hdc along the first post, Ch 1, and then work 4hdc along the second post just as before, Sl St into the gap between the two halves of the 'scales', turn
Row 3: Ch1, hdc in gap, turn
Row 4: repeat Row 2 and Row 3 until your strap is the length that you want it to be.
Bind off and either slip stitch, sew, or using the method of your choice attach the ends of the strap to either side of the purse taking care not to twist it.
Sew in all your ends and voila! A beautiful scaly/leafy bag!
If you like, you can add in a lining which I recommend since the stitch pattern tends to somewhat large holes.
If you have any questions, please feel free to use my contact page so I can help you out (I can also send more pictures!). This is my first time writing out a pattern so I completely understand how some pieces may be confusing or poorly explained.
Also, now that you've got the hang of things and might want a simpler version of the pattern to have on hand here is the PDF which you may download for your convenience.
Stay cozy!
Ruth